Sept 09 Tech

This month we will discuss and shoot what I call a closet exhibitionist. 

These images are perfect for a subject that want to be bold but under no circumstances will allow her face  to be shown.  A good example are these images because the subject was/is in a high profile job and very recognizable. She wanted intimate images for her significant other But… under no circumstances could she be recognizable in any of the images. If by some chance they got out her career was trash.

On the other hand, she was completely comfortable posing and being photographed close-up and intimately. Hence the term closet exhibitionist.

There is a lot more to shooting and lighting this type of image than meets the eye trust me! The light must be positioned with extreme care. This creates a situation where the subject may need to be in a rather daring pose for some length of time. The subject must trust that you will not get their face into the image The subject must trust you because you will be shooting up close, much closer than a full length or three quarter shot.  You are in the subjects personal space. Some subjects react to explicit posing and  attention, so if you detect any reaction SHUT UP shoot and NEVER mention it!

When the subject and I discussed the images I asked her what outfits she wanted to work with. Here is where trust comes into play. She confided in me that her favorite outfit was crotchless panties stockings and heels worn under a long coat. Soooo that is what I instructed her to wear to the session. I also asked her to bring a pair of seamed stockings and a lace top.  Now lets get started

Since this outfit was for clandestine exhibitionism, I took the first image in the direction of dark and moody.  This would mean heavy shadows and strong contrast.

I used an 18x36 inch strip bank to light this image and a black card placed on the left side (Camera right) of the subject.

To accomplish the placement of the light I had only the modeling light turned on. When possible only have the light that will used to make the image turned on. This way you are not influenced by any other light source.

I moved the strip bank around to the subject's side until I saw the shadows I wanted forming on her abdomen.  Next the black card was moved until the shadows became deep and blocked up. 

I took a gray card reading on the highlight side of the subject and it was up to her. I did a test image and she assumed the pose you see here.

After this image was done I added grain in Photoshop and retouched a few loose threads. The grain was planned in advance

Camera: Nikon D200 w 70-200 ED Zoom

Light: Calumet Travelight 750 with Chimera Strip Bank

I swapped out the strip bank for a 36x48 Chimera Pro Bank for a broader light source and aimed the soft box down toward the camera position.

A meter reading was taken at the abdomen once again and at the uh, uh, crotch. Model holds card campers, trust or not don't be foolish!

I had to add a bit of fill so I used a small white card to kick in some extra light. Remember the subject did not want all shadows.

To get the depth of field I needed I used a 17--55 Zoom. The benefit was I could hold the same relaitve camera position and change composition as the lady changed her pose.

In post with photoshop I added a diffues glow and destaurated slightly. Note the shallow DOF.

Camera: Nikon D200 w 17-55 ED Zoom

Light: Calumet Travelight 750 with Chimera 36x48 Pro Bank

The subject changed and when I suggested the pose she bent and exagerated the position.

The 36 x 48 soft box was used once again and this time the black card was used to deepen the shadows.

I moved the light untill I saw the shape and form created in the viewfinder. Then I moved the black card until the shadows looked right.

I metered the image at the mid tone on her left "cheek" and checked the shadow on the extreme camera right. I finally settled for a 3 and a half stop range between the mid tone and shadow.

This was the most difficult image to light because of me having to move from the light position to camera position to make adjustments. To keep the light from becoming too contrasty I had to have the light farther from the subject than I could reach with my arm.

In Post: I desaturated the image and faded the desaturation untill I got the effect I wanted.

Camera: Nikon D200 w 17-55 ED Zoom

Light: Calumet Travelight 750 with Chimera 36x48 Pro Bank

The moral of the story, simple tools like sheets of core board can save your tail, and are not expensive.

Nothing to it.... See you next month in the ONLINE Studio and always.

Chase your dreams not your competition...Jack Cutler